Entry details

Curzon
Author

Curzon

Date

November 24th, 2009

Tags

,

Comments

15 Comments so far.
Add yours.

“Yes Sir! Thank you sir!”

On my previous trip to Dubai in September, I wrote about aspects of Dubai that recalled colonial India:

Notwithstanding the pen name used by this blogger to anonymize his internet presence, I have not personally experienced India during the era of British colonial rule… Migrants from India and Pakistan constitute as much as 75% of the entire population of the Dubai metropolitan area. And it is a fierce class distinction as well. Wealthy Arabs and Westerners dine at expensive restauarants, stay at 4 and 5 star hotels, and run the banking, financial, business, and legal superstructure. The worker bees who keep the city running are all from South Asia. The Uncle Tom-esque friendliness of these South Asian service industry workers in the face of borderline abusive rudeness by Arabs and Westerners is unnerving, even for this most superior person.

What do I mean by “Uncle Tom-esque friendliness”? Allow me to recall my arrival at the the airport. Walking through the exit at the ungodly hour of 5 a.m., I was greeted by a cheery South Asian man holding a placard with my name. I said hello and he immediately took the trolly with my luggage and led me towards the parking lot. I’m a social guy and curious about new environments and new people—I engaged in small talk and asked him his name and where he was from. His response: “Thank you sir! I am Muhammed from India.” I asked where in India. “Thank you! I am from northern India, near Kashmir.” I asked him how long he had been in Dubai. “A very long time now, 13 years. Haha!” I asked him how he liked it. “Thank you! It is a nice place, with lots of changes during my time here.” Most questions, although they required no appreciation, were regularly begun with an exclamation of thanks—and a very jolly thanks at that. As we approached the car, he had to take a detour with the luggage trolly to get up a ramp, so he bolted to the car, opened the door, and invited me to sit me down while he ran back to the trolly to put the luggage in the car. I didn’t sit and instead helped him carry the luggage because it makes me feel uncomfortable to relax while people are working around me. This in turn made him even more uncomfortable.

To make a comparative observation, this type of attiude is frequently seen by Indians but rarely by Pakistanis. Most Pakistanis who I encounter are much more reserved in how they interract with people, and are soft-spoken but generally very warm and friendly in nature. Reading pre-9/11 Robert D. Kaplan, I would surmise that he could attribute this difference to the fact that India was long under British civilian imperial rule, while Pakistan was never really held by more than the military rule of Britain. Pakistanis probably preserve more of their native cultural norms whereas many Indians may, through experience, feel this servantly position to be suitable.

Comments to this entry

Shirshendu
November 24, 2009
3:31 am
Little history lesson - what is now called 'Pakistan' was actually a part of undivided India and was very much under the British rule. Moreover, Pakistanis fared better under British rule as they formed an ally in British 'divide and rule' policy against INC, the main political party that was opposed to British rule and counted people like Gandhi and Nehru as its leaders. That was why the Pakistanis got their independence one day before Indians. So, your hypothesis is incorrect.
Ahsan
November 24, 2009
3:36 am
Dude, whatcha talking 'bout. Pakistan was part of India before independence from the British in 1947 ;) There are different reasons for the reserve - Pakistanis are probably under a lot of stress due to what's happening back in their home country, and it's partly cultural.

Oh, and I'm a Pakistani in Dubai :)
Joe Jones
November 24, 2009
3:55 am
I got very similar treatment from an Indian limo driver in Denver recently, and have seen this sort of behavior among Indian restaurateurs in Tokyo from time to time. I think this is simply their cultural attitude toward customer service, and has more to do with their home country than any particular place where they happen to reside. It isn't too far from traditional Japanese standards of customer service -- what makes it unnerving for us is that it is conducted in English, and we generally expect English-speaking customer service to suck.
Bhowmik Shah
November 24, 2009
5:18 am
Being an Indian i can sort of explain this from the other side. As Joe points out, this behavior does not have a lot to do with the length of time either India or Pakistan were under the British rule. India and Pakistan have a very high cultural emphasis on politeness towards a guest and / or a customer and treating them well. This behavior is more visible for people who work in the service industry. And both Indians and Pakistani's , in fact, most South Asians place a lot of importance on treating their customers and guests in an extremely polite manner.
Curzon
November 24, 2009
5:30 am
Ahsan, what I meant by interpreting Kalpan there was that he has compared and described India's democracy v.s. Pakistan's governmental instability as a result of Britain's civilian rule, which never really penetrated Pakistan, although the military did indeed extend the technical borders into the western frontier. Your blog suggests your a like-minded geopolitical wanderer, what do you do here?

Joe, when you ask a casual conversational question and the reply is "thank you!" it is unnerving, politeness being a separate issue.
Ahsan
November 24, 2009
5:48 am
I admit I did not click through to read the Kaplan article, but ... FATA is /far/ from the mainstream, cultural heartland on Pakistan: the eastern states of Punjab/Sindh. Not that I speak authoritatively because I haven't been to Pakistan for 16ish years. (I was born+raised in the UAE.)

Indeed, I have an amateur interest in geo-politics/strategy/war and I follow this blog closely.

You're coming to the UAE at a very interesting time, with lots of development and other things happening.
Marcus
November 24, 2009
6:01 am
I am an Indian who was born and raised in Dubai. Thank you for this post.
ed
November 24, 2009
8:52 am
This post is classic example of over-analysis. Indians are more subservient than Pakistanis because one man you encountered in Dubai prefaced every reply with a 'thank you'?

Perhaps his command of English simply wasn't very good? Many Arabs and indeed many Japanese I know, when speaking in English, will automatically reply to an enquiry about their health with an "I'm fine thanks and how are you?" even after it's already been established that the asker's health is just fine.

I think the fact that you attribute your driver's perceived subservience to British colonial rule says more about your mindset than it does about his. India gained its independence 62 years and two generations ago.

If, as you say, Muhammad behaved in a fashion that suggested he felt he was your social inferior, his deference was almost certainly due to the fact that he was your driver and not because of the colour of your skin.
spandrell
November 24, 2009
12:24 pm
"I am an Indian who was born and raised in Dubai. Thank you for this post."
I'm the only who finds this too funny?
Pakistanis didn't thank you in their comments =)
tdaxp
November 24, 2009
3:10 pm
Spandrell's comment perfectly reflect the knee-jerk, pro-Russian trolling that makes any discussion of eastern Europe hilarious and tiring in equal measure ;-)
Curzon
November 25, 2009
3:11 am
Ed, my airport experience is just one annecdote of what I've experienced, it is by no means the only example. I find that Pakistanis are polite and reserved; Indians are polite and enthusiastic.
ed
November 25, 2009
7:00 am
Curzon,
Maybe you do have a point after all.
I mean, the English are polite and reserved and the Americans are polite and enthusiastic and, oh yes, America was also COLONISED BY THE BRITISH, wasn't it?
Thanks for clearing that up.
Niall
November 25, 2009
10:00 pm
I work in software development, and have therefore worked with lots of well-educated, middle-class Indians. They are hardly fawning or obsequious, but I have always noted their extreme cheerfulness, something I have always been grateful for, working in an industry full of grumpy, non-socialized geeks. I have no idea why they have this attitude, but it's a good thing in my book and hardly the result of a colonial complex.
von Kaufman-Turkestansky
November 28, 2009
5:41 am
Thanks for the observations on Dubai, Curzon. The examination is timely. There was a fascinating story in The Independent last spring that describes another expat story - this one of a Canadian couple on the skids in Dubai, with a husband imprisoned for debts and the wife without status, living out of a parking lot. That's just the first of several stories in the article. A very interesting portrait of a city, one that probably comes as no surprise if you have been there even for a short while.

http://www.independent.co.uk/opinion/commentators/johann-hari/the-dark-side-of-dubai-1664368.html
Mutantfrog Travelogue » Blog Archive » The Tortured Japanese Decision Making Process, Part 1: Dubai and Futenma
December 13, 2009
7:36 am
[...] for the material, and you can read dispatches from the region in recent posts that appeared here, here, here and here. However, I am still remain closely involved in Japan, and will continue to blog [...]