Hu Jintao is heading out after a visit to Tokyo, where the leaders of China and Japan brought a thaw in bilateral ties after more than a decade out in the cold. The trip was historic in that it was China’s state visit to Japan in a decade, and at five days, it is Mr. Hu’s longest single foray to any country.

On the top political levels, things have gone well. Japanese PM Yasuo Fukuda and Hu signed a blueprint for ties that represented a “new starting-point” between the two nations. There were not be regular top-level visits in future, increased cultural exchanges, and even military relations. And even tough issues were addressed. Fukuda said China should recognize that Tibet has become an international issue. And the disputed gas exploitation by China in the disputed East China Sea was discussed, if not resolved.

The in the public diplomacy arena, Hu has been very active. He gave a lecture at Waseda University, played ping pong with teenagers, chilled with the Emperor, promised new pandas, and stopped by Sun Yat Sen’s favorite Japanese eatery. On the surface things have been peachy.

But despite this, and opinion polls showing growing popular trust in both countries, there remains strong suspicion towards China by many Japanese (and I suspect the feeling is mutual). The governor of Chiba Prefecture (next to Tokyo and where seven people fell sick after eating Chinese-made frozen dumplings several months ago) said Thursday that people should not be “fooled” by China’s pandas: “be it the gyoza case or the oil (gas) field problem, it is high time that the two countries that exercise political leadership in Asia held talks squarely to move in the right direction.” A non-commissioned GSDF officer tried to commit suicide in front of the parliament building. And as I work just a few blocks away from the foreign ministry, I witnessed blaring loudspeakers from right-wing activist groups that blocked the streets and backed up traffic for miles.

Much of this is to be expected, and ultimately this may just be growing pains to a better relationship. While there is a long way to go in improving and stabilizing bilateral relations—so far, so good.

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