I woke up this morning around 9am from under my four blankets and wearing all my clothes. The heating doesn’t work and although the windows are intact, it feels like they are open. Thank god for the four massive blankets, dirty or not. I wandered around the city today seeing mosques and churches. Most were closed but a small tip magically opens all closed doors. Diyarbakir is far from the cities of Western Turkey I visited in 2004. The only western influence here is the occasional uncovered girl, computers, cell phones and the always international jeans. Otherwise it is a different world and one I can never imagine being in the EU. However, if I traveled through the hinterlands of Bulgaria or Romania, the same may very well be true.

Diyarbakir has a long history but its most recent, that of a low level war between the Kurds and Turkish state is what dominates the city more than its massive 6km of walls. While the streets are bustling filled with oriental music, men sipping tea and children selling things, the city is depressing and dirty. Many people complain about unemployment and having little to do. I found a surprisingly trustworthy guide who actually spoke good English that showed me around for a few hours and even though someone with his language skills could be making good money in Western Turkey where the tourists are, here he has little to do.

I met a group of men in a carpet shop near the Uli Cami (grand mosque) who spoke pretty good English and we chatted for quite awhile. One used to work on an American military base which was nearby but closed when the USSR went out of business. We talked about many things, politics included and they were very happy about the US invasion of Iraq, specifically that it freed the Kurds there who now have a chance at independence. They all were quite excited about the prospect of the US supporting an independent Kurdistan. While in agreement, I questioned whether that was feasible given its neighbors who collaborate to keep the Kurds down (Syria, Turkey, Iran) but they were sure it was no problem as long as American supports them, which is true. I can only hope we do as the rest of Iraq doesn’t have a bright future. After the Kirkuk referendum later this year, when it will most likely become part of the autonomous Kurdish region of Iraq, they will have the economic basis necessary to break away. In addition, the probable incorporation of Kirkuk will likely lead to a spike in fighting there which would give them additional cover for breaking away.

On the subject of Iraq, it is very much on the minds of people here. The first thing my taxi driver asked me yesterday at the airport is whether I was going there. I lied and said no pretending to be surprised and asking how safe it was to go there. Since yesterday, others have mentioned it as well.

But back to Turkey. I’m always impressed at how service oriented Turks are. Waiters are very attentive, smartly dressed and serious. In Syria, most couldn’t be bothered or were hard to find when needed. In Turkey, whether in a bus, restaurant or little tea house, service is taken very seriously. This is one trait that will serve the Turks well as even “Western”Â? countries like Russia or parts of Eastern Europe have yet to master it. I’m only reminded of asking for coffee for breakfast in Moscow only to have the waitress tell me no, not until I finished eating.

As for the 3 churches I visited, one was Armenian but out of service as the roof had collapsed years back. However, the structure had otherwise remained fairly intact and was worth visiting. Most interesting was the Church of the Virgin Mary, a Chaldean church where services are held in Aramaic. I met the priest (who serves the whole city) and the caretaker both of whom were very nice. Luckily, I had my unofficial guide, Mehmet, translating for me. The priest spoke a little English but mainly Turkish, Kurdish, Aramaic and Arabic. We traded a few words of Arabic which the other people got a real kick out of. I was invited back for the 9am service tomorrow morning which I plan to go to.

Having seen most of the city today, I think tomorrow will probably be my last day. From here I plan to see Mardin which is just over an hour southeast of here. To finish, here are a few pictures from my trip so far.

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