For the past two weeks I have been relaxing in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. I was born and raised here. I miss the mountains when I am away, like all highlanders. My namesake, Sir Francis Younghusband, was also enamoured with the mountains. He spent his youth traversing the passes of northern India and Central Asia, a foot soldier in the Great Game of the 19th Century.
When Sir Younghusband was older he became the president of the Royal Geographic Society (RGS) and started a committee which funded a number of trips to conquer the world’s largest peak: Chomolungma aka. Mount Everest (29,028 feet). He wrote about the attempts on Everest in the 20’s and 30’s in a book entitled Everest – The Challenge.
I received a 1936 edition of the book from Dr. ARW for a wedding present. I took this time of holiday in the mountains to finally sit down and read it. The book is a very interesting read, not only for the heroic accounts of the would-be conquerers of Everest, but to read the interesting outlook on life of Sir Francis himself. In the second half of the book Sir Francis ponders on topics as diverse as universal religion, evolution, astronomy and the existence of alien life.
Sir Francis warns European mountaineers who might make light of Himalayan “superstitions” and beliefs of higher powers. Sir Francis believes the Europeans should accept and encourage these beliefs because (pp. 151-2):
They are in the hands of such a Power””?and so is the European mountaineer himself. And the more the Himalayan hill-men and the European mountaineer realize their common kinship as creatures of that power … the more likely they are to be successful in their common endeavour.
The ability of the mountaineers to adapt to the adverse conditions of increasingly higher altitudes solidified Sir Francis’ belief in Darwin’s theories. On page 175 he talks about the realities of nature:
The result is a stern, selfish, and sometimes brutal struggle for existence, in which the fittest survive, and the weak, and the old, and unfit, go to the wall.
Sir Francis had an interesting outlook on humanity and nature, combining deep spirituality and belief in a higher power with Darwinian natural selection. These views were influenced by the mountains and the stars of the roof of the world. This book was written in 1936. I couldn’t dredge up any contemporary reviews on the net, but I am really curious to see how controversial this view would have been in the 30’s. Sir Francis is famous for his controversial views later in life, and the religious groups and he was involved with. Hopefully we will hear more about that from Chirol in the near future.
One final note: the FP Blog posted about mapping mountainous terrain of Afghanistan and noted that George Everest, the surveyor Mount Everest was named after, actually pronounced his name split into two syllables: “Eve-rest.”
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COMMENTS / 4 COMMENTS
Lexington Green added these pithy words on 15 Dec 06 at 3:25 pmYounghusband was quite a guy. The first chapter of Gen. D.K. Palit’s excellent book War in High Himalaya, The Indian Army in Crisis 1962, which I am reading right now, has a chapter on the British exploration and border claims along India’s northern frontier. Of course Younghusband’s name comes up.
Jake Norton added these pithy words on 15 Dec 06 at 4:23 pmAs an Everest climber and one who has studied in depth the early attempts on the mountain – I helped discover George Mallory’s remains in 1999 and returned to find out more about he and Irvine’s disappearance in 2001 and 2004 – I think that the early climbers, at least those going to the Himalaya, were very respectful of the ideas, ideals, and views of the local people. If one reads the chronicles of the 1921, ‘22, and ‘24 expeditions, the climbers’ thoughts make this clear. Certainly, they found some of the customs curious, but that feeling came, for the most part, without judgement of any kind.
For me, the most telling is the activities of John Noel, photographer/cinematographer in ‘22 & ‘24, and Howard Somervell, climber in both those years. They put together the music for Noel’s film of the ‘24 expedition by documenting the local folk songs in the villages they passed through and having those played by an orchestra when the silent film was aired. These men had a deep respect for the people who they encountered on their adventures, just like Younghusband suggests. And, it is no more evident that in Somervell’s amazing decision to give up an offer to teach medicine at Oxford and return to India to treat the “suffering masses” he saw there.
It was an extraordinary time in many ways, and these early explorers – Younghusband, Mallory, Irvine, Norton, Somervell, Odell, Shipton, Smythe, Tillman, etc. – were, in my opinion, extraordinary men.
Thanks for the post, Younghusband!
Younghusband added these pithy words on 15 Dec 06 at 4:26 pmYeah Sir Francis was pretty wild. He was an amazing officer who had some grand adventures in his youth. When he got older and more “spiritual” things got a little crazy. Patrick French’s book on him is great. I hope Chirol will post a review of it in the next few weeks.
Younghusband added these pithy words on 15 Dec 06 at 6:01 pm@Jake: It’s nice to hear from a specialist. The story of Mallory (and his body) was pretty amazing.
At the end of Sir Francis’ book he talks about how those that have climbed the peaks of the Himalayas gain a spirituality and a profound sense of respect for the big picture. He talks about how the first Europeans brought their own porters but soon gained respect for the local hill-men. There is even a parable or two about undying companionship between climber and porter (not in a sexual sense). Like you say, the mountaineers had a deep respect for the local peoples. I bet this became a point of contention when they returned to London to tell of their adventures. Sir Francis had a progressive view of world religions, which wasn’t the norm in England at the time. Those sections of the book were for those arm-chair mountaineers I bet. Also, I think he thought that in the future many more people would be able to travel to the region, and it served as a cautionary note to future travellers.
