A few days ago I posted about my big trip next year from the Caucasus to Germany overland. I’m hoping to hit up most of the conflict regions I write about. However, getting into some of these places is extremely difficult. If any readers have been to, know about, or know someone who’s been to the following places, I’d appreciate any help or tips. I have done extensive reasearch so far but write in hopes of others filling in the gaps or recommending sources I’m not familiar with.
- South Ossetia – Georgians here tell me its ok. Travel guides are sketchy. The border is supposed to be open but tense.
- Abkhazia – From what I read, dangerous on the border with Georgia, doable further up and only possible to enter through Russia with an Abkhaz visa (obtainable where?).
- Agdam – A ghost town on the front lines of Karbagh still inside Azerbaijan. Said to be a military zone and not visitable.
- Karbagh – Supposed to be very easy to visit with a Karbagh visa obtainable only in Yerevan for 25 bucks in two hours. Safe but still sketchy.
- Nakichevan – The exclave of Azerbaijan, it’s no different than entering the country elsewhere. Spefically, I need a flight to Baku since overland is literally a war zone. Flights seem to be whenever.
- Enclaves/Exclaves – There are a number of Azeri and Armenian enclaves in the other’s respective country. How can I get into any one of them?
- Iraqi Kurdistan – Seems one or two have done it and that Dohuk and Erbil are safe. What about visas? And above all safety!
- Iran – Technically, going through northern Iran from Nakichevan to mainland Azerbaijan is the most logical. Does an American have a snowball’s chance in hell? Anyone been recently?
I still have a good 6 months but the logistics and bureaucracy are insane. Thanks in advance!
UPDATE: Seems my dream about Iran may come true. And who knows, Chirol may go inspect the Iranian reactors.
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Comments to this entry
carpetblogger
October 4, 2006
8:35 pm
Naxchivan: you can go if you can get on the flight. It runs at the whims of the local gangsters and they get seating priority, when it goes. It is frequently delayed by bad weather, which means you could become really familiar with Naxchivan city. Naxchivan is basically is a police state, if by "police" you mean gangster clans of paranoid, neckless thugs who will monitor your every move. That said, you can probably do almost anything there if you throw some money at the problem.
There's nowhere in AZ you can't officially go other than the border areas surrounding NK (toward Agdam) and Nax. People have gone up to the lovely lakes above (south of) Ganja, but you need local help and a thick wallet. It also depends what the tension levels are like when you want to go. There are plenty of places that are logistically difficult to get to (Lerik Rayon in the south is particularly third world in terms of transport options). When down in that area, keep an eye out for that US base that everyone's always talking about.
Rommel
October 5, 2006
1:58 am
In all seriousness though, if possible you should visit Lalish which is north of Mosul. If you're lucky, you may just get to chat with a Yazidi holy man.
I hope you make it to northern Mesopotamia. Kurdistan intrigues the hell out of me and we will all look forward to hearing about it!
Debris
October 6, 2006
11:35 am
For Iraqui Kurdistan, you have to cross the border at Silopi and you need a taxi driver who´ll fix all the bureacratic hassle for you, sneak into queues, bribe guards etc(relieve me, you can´t do it alone).
At the kurdish border post you´ll be offered tea while they question you: why are you coming to Kurdistan?do you have friends here?which are your plans?
Eventually they´ll stamp your passport and let you in, but if they don´t (which also happens) you´ll have to go back across the whole shitty bureaucracy at the Turkish side.
Given you are finally allowed in, you need a taxi for Dohuk(1 hour) the place is totally safe and it will be a good and pleasant introduction to the area.
I posted these two pieces:
http://polosbastards.com/pb/northern-iraq-there-and-back-again/
http://www.polosbastards.com/artman/publish/yezidi.shtml
By no means should you go nowhere around Mosul, or even Kirkuk.
Erbil and Suleimaniyah are safe as well.
As for the Caucasus, Karabagh is a piece of cake but given that you want to visit Azerbaijan too, you have to leave that for the end of the trip. They won´t let you into Azer, with a Karabagh stamp on your passport, and they don´t satmp separate sheets of paper any more. I visited Agdam, no problem, but if you come across the police you´ll probable be arrested.
When you apply for your visa don´t write down you want to visit Agdam or Kelbajar.
There´s a daily flight to Naxchivan from Baku, and you can exit the exclave at the Turkish border. (It will take an awful lot of hours though)
Abkhazia is a totally different matter. The visa procedures are complex and not everyone is allowed to enter the region. Besides, ythe situation is worsening up so you won´t get to know if you can cross until youy are at the border. Nevertheless, apply for your visa ´cos you only pay for it (20bucks) once you are in Sujum.
This is a piece of mine on the border crossing:
http://polosbastards.com/pb/abkhazia-the-bridge-on-the-river-inguri/
And this is the best piece of advise we keep constantly updated about the area:
http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messagepost.cfm?postaction=reply&catid=15&threadid=872668&messid=7435549&STARTPAGE=1&parentid=0&from=1
Entering Ossetia is way easier. You just need to tell them via e-mail (I´ll look for that one later) in advance. The problem is that due to the unrest in the area, the border is very likely to be closed.
I could help with Iran as well but you´re definitely not likely to visit this great country.
Debris
October 26, 2006
9:11 am
http://www.hiddeneurope.co.uk/articles.php?tPath=17
von Kaufman-Turkestansky
October 26, 2006
5:22 pm
Representative of the Republic of Abkhazia in German Republic
Plenipotentiary Representative: Mrs. Khibla Amichba
Tel: +491797008998
e-mail: kamichba@mail.ru
http://www.mfaabkhazia.org/Consular%20Service%20Eng.htm
Regarding safety in all of the places you mention above, the State Department should have travel reports. State will probably warn you away from most of these places. It is up to you to evaluate the risks of course.
http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1765.html
You could always get a job with State first, and go in an armoured car... if you can write the exam and speak some Georgian in addition to the German you already know, I bet you they would offer a job...
Chirol
October 26, 2006
5:49 pm
von Kaufman-Turkestansky
October 26, 2006
6:13 pm
Debris
October 26, 2006
7:08 pm
Your info is pretty out of date and such fact doesn´t encourage enthusiastic travellers such as Chirol to pay the visit to your astonishingly beautiful republic.
The staff are at the MFA are very friendly. They always answered the phone and replied to my e-mails...in perfect English!! They are a young and enthusiastic group which has nothing to do with their Soviet antecessors in such positions.
Just ask for Stella or Maxim and they´ll do their best to help you.
Going in an armoured car???? I travelled solo by public transport: Marshrutka from Ingur to Gal, bus afterwards to Sukhum. And from there, more masrutskas and more buses up to Gulripsh, Tsebelda, Gagra..etc
Just out of curiosity: if I can ask, which part of Abkhazia are you from?
Itabop
von Kaufman-Turkestansky
October 27, 2006
9:10 am
Regarding the US Dept of State's advice - it is meant for the general population, to give them information about potential risks so that they can make informed decisions about travel. The State Dept (like other Foreign ministries for other countries) also would like to reduce the number of emergency consular cases that they have to deal with. People in the US who want to travel do a place where they can hear a foreign language, stay in beds and breakfasts, see some nice museums and still have the same level of services that they have at home, without having to risk flying on an airplane, are advised to go to Quebec. www.bonjourquebec.com. Just be careful driving on overpasses in Laval.
But seriously, it is important for travellers to know that there are risks in the Caucasus that are different from those you might face going to, say, Norway.
Debris
October 27, 2006
10:19 am
Actually I read your post too fast to understand it well. I beg your pardon.
Maxim and Stella work at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Abkhazia.