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Chirol
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Chirol

Date

September 29th, 2006

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Baku to Stuttgart Overland

Readers may well have noticed my increasing posting on the Caucasus and Balkans. Part of this is due to my serious interest in the so-called frozen conflicts and partly, due to my upcoming trip there. Last night it became official. I purchased a one-way ticket from Germany to Istanbul for 56 EUR. The key here is one-way. My next step will be purchasing a domestic Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul to Diyarbakir in Turkish Kurdistan.

This will be my most ambitious and second longest trip covering about 3 months and a dozen countries including various non-countries. From Turkey, I’ll cross into Azerbaijan, Georgia, South Ossetia, maybe Abkhazia (visa trouble), Armenia, Karbagh, back into Turkey and then into Greece, Macedonia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Bosnia and Croatia.

March 1st 2007 is the big day. Until then, I’ll continue reading and researching the region. At this point, there may be small changes to my itinerary such as a possible short jaunt back into Syria, or Iraqi Kurdistan or Iran (though getting a visa is near impossible). Abkhazia is high on my list but my understanding that crossing into it is only possible from Russia. Nevertheless, the trip will cover around 3,300 miles back to Germany all overland.

I’d like to ask any readers living in those regions or with extensive experience in them to email me any tips or suggestions you may have. I’d also be happy to buy anyone a beer (or tea as religion and country may have it) who’s willing to meet up along the way.

Comments to this entry

John Brown
September 29, 2006
12:04 pm
There are a couple guys in Istanbul who will buy you a beer or five.

What is this "Turkish Kurdistan" you speak of?

Iyi yolculuklar abi...
Chirol
September 29, 2006
12:27 pm
An offer I can't refuse. I assume it'll be a tasty Efes? We can discuss the Kurdish issue over them! As for your comments in Turkish, I can't understand them yet, but I've just ordered a few books to begin learning actually.
carpetblogger
September 29, 2006
12:32 pm
Just did a much shorter version of that trip -- Kyiv to Baku overland. Happy to give you the 411 on Baku/AZ. Make sure you go there before you hit NK.
Joe
September 29, 2006
1:39 pm
Man, NK is so high on my list of places to visit right now. I just hope I can make it there before everything gets leveled and replaced with convenience stores and Lotterias.
Joe
September 29, 2006
1:39 pm
Oh wait, you were talking about a different NK. Never mind. :P
Levan
September 29, 2006
1:47 pm
Chirol you are also welcome to have a glass or two of georgian beer in Tbilisi!
Rommel
September 29, 2006
3:26 pm
God, I am so jealous.
Georgia is going to be beautiful (as well as all the other countries).
Might want to get a Russian book too while you're at it. Do you read Cyrillic?
Is it possible to travel north from Georgia/AZ/Armenia into the Russian North Caucasus or no? I think it would be fascinating to travel overland from the Caucasus to the Volga region. Best of luck, hope it is a safe trip!
elambend
September 29, 2006
3:42 pm
That is an ambition travel plan, I am supremely jealous. If you have some time for extra reading, may I suggest "The Orientalist."
Grendel
September 29, 2006
7:14 pm
Darn, there *are* advantages to have no kids or a fixed employment. ;-)
Have fun, the hospitality in Turkey is boundless!
Chirol
September 29, 2006
9:59 pm
Levan: I'd love to. Or some fabulous Georgian wine. I absolutely love the stuff!

Rommel: Russia doesn't jive with my return route overland though I agree it'd be interesting though perhaps pretty risky.

Grendel: Indeed! I love Turkey too! Can't wait to go again.
ComingAnarchy.com » Blog Archive » Misc. Travel Help
October 4, 2006
8:05 pm
[...] A few days ago I posted about my big trip next year from the Caucasus to Germany overland. I’m hoping to hit up most of the conflict regions I write about. However, getting into some of these places is extremely difficult. If any readers have been to, know about, or know someone who’s been to the following places, I’d appreciate any help or tips. I have done extensive reasearch so far but write in hopes of others filling in the gaps or recommending sources I’m not familiar with. [...]
ComingAnarchy.com » Blog Archive » Georgia: Little Engine that Can?
October 14, 2006
3:53 pm
[...] I wish them luck and can’t wait to visit! What say you? [...]
von Kaufman-Turkestansky
October 17, 2006
2:17 pm
Chirol - your plan is good, except I would not underestimate risks in Kurdistan and Georgia! (when you talked about Russia being risky, I imagine you meant that you wouldn't want to wander into the North Caucasus republics, which is wise). Apparently kidnapping is a problem all over Georgia too. So stay safe! That said, the chance to visit Georgia is an enviable one, as the country is legendary for warmth and hospitality. Just keep one eye open.
Chirol
October 17, 2006
6:45 pm
Von K: Where are you from? And what makes you say Georgia is risky? This is the first I've heard of it so I'm rather curious.
von Kaufman-Turkestansky
October 18, 2006
10:24 am
From Canada. Spent time in the CIS and speak Russian (self-taught). Now I keep an eye on the region as a matter of academic interest. I read your posts with interest. Keep 'em coming!

Kidnapping in Georgia made headliines in 2002-2003, where a British banker was kidnpped and a Georgian basketball star moved his whole family to Denver.

Crime is a problem in many places; but in many parts of the CIS generally you have a challenge - no guarantee that law enforcement will speak English, and the social upheaval of the past 15 years. The crime situation in the CIS and Eastern Europe is just different than in Western Europe and North America.

I am not saying don't go! I would rate threats to property higher than threats to life, and a lot depends on how much attention you draw to yourself (that applies anywhere in the CIS, I think). In North America you can avoid trouble by avoiding certain neighbourhoods; in the CIS the frontiers between safe and not-so-safe are less easy to spot. A lot of common sense applies.

Source - US State Department:

CRIME: Crime is a very serious problem in Georgia. There is a great disparity in affluence between foreigners and a large percentage of Georgians. Westerners, and Americans in particular, are perceived as being wealthy and are therefore specifically targeted for economic- and property-based crimes. Incidents such as residential break-ins, carjacking, car theft, petty theft, and armed robbery account for at least 75% of the crimes involving Americans that are reported to the Embassy.

The threat of kidnapping exists both within and outside of Tbilisi. In the past, foreign businessmen have been abducted for ransom and Americans in the Tbilisi area have received kidnapping threats. The possibility of similar risk to Americans elsewhere in the country cannot be discounted.

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1122.html

Also, another curious item (I just did a web search now on google to see whether there was any news lately about this):
http://www.hthtravelinsurance.com/health_sec_news/article_template.cfm?p_fn=ne_news_25174.html
ComingAnarchy.com » Blog Archive » Preparing for a Trip: Part I
January 28, 2007
10:30 am
[...] Prezzies for ChavezCurzon’s Sister takes a trip to BelizeFinally!Baku to Stuttgart OverlandCurzon in Kingston, Part 1: The Border Crossing [...]