Last week saw the completion of the Beijing-Lhasa railway and the first overland travelers by train to the Roof of the World. The train stops at major cities Xi’an, Lanzhou and Xining before the 14 passenger cars arrive in Tibet.
The $4.2 billion project takes the train as high as 5,000 meters, climbing so high that pens and packaged foods aboard burst without warning. As someone particularly vulnerable to altitude sickness, I am very glad to hear about the first class cars with oxygen tubes.
I read much criticism that this railroad attacks Tibetan independence and culture, that the train is a tool Beijing will use to overwhelm the Tibetan population and advance China’s illegitimate rule in Tibet. Please. China has occupied Tibet for half a century and independence is no where in sight. Han settlers are already flooding the place, and this train allows travelers acutely vulnerable to changes in altitude (such as myself) the opportunity to travel to Tibet and give the Tibetan locals my First World travel dollars. More travel stands to improve the Tibetan economy and raise the standards of living for more people, not to mention many more business opportunities. And regardless of Tibet’s economic future, that’s a very good thing.
I did appreciate this piece from the Hindustan Times:
On the other it also brings Beijing’s military might precariously close to India. Notwithstanding the current bonhomie between the two Asian giants, China clearly understands the strategic importance of ensuring efficient communication between the mainland and the “roof of the world”. Apart from giving Beijing the ability to transport troops and ammunition, some experts fear it would facilitate an easy passage of intercontinental and intermediate range missiles right to the border with India. It is possible to argue that a rail line that could carry troops and ammunition could as easily carry traders and goods, but given China’s long-term thinking it would be unwise to believe that Beijing would only do the latter.
P.S. Yes, I do plan to take this trip sometime. I’ve been all over China, but never to Beijing or Tibet. This trip would give me the chance to see both regions and the vast country in between. And I could do it overland!
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COMMENTS / 27 COMMENTS
carpetblogger added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 12:08 pmJustify your visit to Tibet with whatever reasons you want (if you need to), but offering your “first world travel dollars to the locals” isn’t a good one in this case. Business loans are among the incentives offered to Han immigrants and they are as enterprising there as they are anywhere else. Indeed, it’s hard to find businesses run by Tibetans—especially in tourism, which is dominated by Han and controlled by the government. How many business opportunities are truly open to Tibetans? Go to Tibet to see what’s happened to Tibet over the last 50 years. Go to western Sichuan (especially Litang) or Northern Ladakh to see Han-free Tibetan culture and give your money to actual Tibetans.
In fact, really go overland! It’s certainly possible to go via Northern Yunan or Gulmud. The trip is slow enough that you can acclimatize and roads bad enough that you don’t have to miss out on the vomiting. I hardly understand the fuss about the vomiting on the passenger train. Nealry every ride on public transport I took in China was characterized by mass puking. I could judge the quality of the busride by the stains below the windows.
Curzon added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 12:23 pmCB: Point taken. And I wouldn’t argue with anything you say. My only question is, would Tibet be better without the railroad? As for seeing Tibetan culture to the east, you’ll note that I was there earlier this year.
As for overland travel, trains are vastly superior vehicles to buses: no traffic, you can see more remote locations, you can get up and walk around to stretch your legs, you can sleep more comfortably, you can meet more people, not deal with poorly built roads, etc etc etc.
Dr. Alfred Russel Wallace added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 12:38 pmYet trains pale when compared to cars.. at least in the minds of car owners. Perhaps transportation is different from other technologies (indeed I would arge that it is…) but it is interesting that developing countries are skipping landline telephony and going straight to wireless, yet China is repeating the west’s travel evolution -although they do seem to be skipping canals….
Trains are ideal for shipping bulk commodities (I think coal is shipped for a penny or two a ton a mile in the US), but US experience suggests its no longer very effective for people… Will there be bulk shipping to or from Tibet?
Jing added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 1:32 pmActually Dr. Alfred Russel Wallace, you are wrong regarding riverine transportation and freight within China. China’s internal water borne transportation system is actually the largest in the world and more freight is moved through it than the rest of the world combined (I wish I had the proof of this on hand but I remember it from the set of special maps that had geographic size based on different variables such as population, economics, etc). Besides, canals are so 5th century BCE, China has been there and done that.
Regarding the efficacy of passenger train transportation, the problems associated with it in the U.S. are not particularly applicable to China. It is two entirely different markets and not particularly comparable.
P.S. Colour me shocked Curzon that you have never been to Beijing.
Curzon added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 1:43 pmColour me shocked that you’re using Anglo spelling!
Yes, I’ve been to twelve provinces but never Beijing. It’s partially due to my preference for ferry travel to and from Japan, with Shanghai being the most convenient port of entry. But Beijing is on my list. (I’ve never been to Hong Kong either, if you don’t count the airport.)
sun bin added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 4:02 pm1. train is vastly more comfortable compared to bus. and allow you more space to walk around and tralk with people, han or tibetan while on trip, and possibly get you a few friend in tibet locally.
2. car allows you to stop more frequently on your way and veer off the arteries. however, you may have to rent a jeep (which is not expensive in china, including the driver and a guide, they charge by km. wouldbe great if you have a few people to share the cost). also true is that car is slower and allows you to adjust to the pressure.
however, train is safer before there is doctors and equipments on the train. while by bus, you may not be proximal to good medical service.note, WSJ has a great account of how they pump the oxygen into the cabin (pressure remaining similar to outside so that the cabin does not have to be air-tight like in airplanes) so that O2 percentage is 25%+ in cabin (vs 20% normally). they used a filter to filter away the larger size nitrogen molecules, quite an ingenius design. (see links from my tibet video post)
3. by all means venture into small cities and villages to meet with tibetan and do business with them directly. that is what i would suggest. to this i think carpetblogger has made a good point.
4. however, i have to disagree with carpetblogger’s rhetoric prejudice agaiinst everything china.
a) han probably dominates the tourism industry. it is a result of tibetan’s lack of exposure to doing business. the railway and more tourist, especially foreigners, will lift the tibetan competitiveness as well. you can impost ‘bumiputra’ policy like malaysia, but even mahatir himself later realized protectionalism/discrimination ended up hurting the malays there.
b) but as curzon probably noted, they are best at opportunistic cheap consumer tourism. they are areas (such as cultural events) that han cannot replace tibetans.
c) the railway not only brings you to lhasa, it make travels into the rest of tibet easier as well.5) i am skeptical of the military importance of the railway, because you only have to bomb a small segment to paralyse the network (for normal road a 4WD can easily bypass the damaged road). but yes, transportation is in general easier
6) you may also want to note that a branch has been planned to connect lhasa and yadong, near the border to Sikkim.
Meanwhile, near Yadong/Sikkim, Natula Pass has been re-opened for trade between China and India.
sun bin added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 4:07 pmDr Wallace,
the US experience is quite unique. e.g. even in Europe and Japan, train still play a very important role in transportation, both passenger and cargo.
In addition, train is powered by electricity, which is much more environmentally friendly that cars. espically in high altitudes, when combustion from car engine is incomplete and eveb the Lexus would release black smoke.
Train also has the advantage of central collection of garbages to be disposed of at the destination.
With car, you would expect more trash (and excretion!) on roadside—you see this even in US, and would just be more serious in China.
carpetblogger added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 8:04 pmCurzon, it depends on how you define Tibet. As a Chinese colony, absolutely better off. As a unique culture under a foreign occupier, no.
It’s good for Chinese. Not good for Tibetans.
J.Kende added these pithy words on 08 Jul 06 at 11:03 pmI was at the Free Tibet protest in front of the Chinese Consulate in NYC on the day the railway opened. I would have video of the event if I hadn’t depressingly lost the SD card it was on later that day. Despite my deep respect and appreciation for the large number of Tibetans that showed up to protest against Chinese efforts to erase Tibetans from Tibet, I don’t personally think the railway is the problem itself. The Chinese have dominated Tibet for the past 50 years, and railway or no independence isn’t anywhere near within reach under current circumstances—as Curzon rightfully emphasizes.
I’m a staunch supporter of an independent Tibet myself. But I think it requires a total rebooting of Tibetan attitudes in order to achieve anything of the sort. It’s great to see how fiercely anti-communist they are, but in order to come anywhere close to independence they must have some power to leverage other than mere resistence and cultural expression. As they are mostly in exile, with a homeland population being progressively replaced by the Han, they should be pouring their considerable energies into free enterprise, population growth, mutual aid within their own communities, and connecting the young with a positive vision for long and short term results in their struggle… They should also be learning from the colonial history of the region of the past two centuries and to be cliched yet again: playing the great game against China themselves.
From my own perspective, I think a China becoming increasingly free politically – to go along with their amazing progress economically – would be a great thing for the world. I do not suggest it be rushed and think a suddenly democratic China would likely be an ochlocratic disaster. But the difference between advancing freedom over time and sudden democracy is all too well understood by most of the contributors to the comments here on CA.
That all said, I also want to see that someday free China have very different national borders than it does today. On my would-be mapmaker’s desk I would draw Tibet as fully independent. How to get there against the overwhelming regional might of the Chinese is the whole question of course. But bigger problems have been overcome before and I do think it can be done again.
Dr. Alfred Russel Wallace added these pithy words on 09 Jul 06 at 3:00 amWell JK, I guess I should say thank you! I can go to bed now that I have learned a new word for the day – ochlocracy!! No more likeable than ‘mob-rule’, but perhaps it sounds a little better??
And if you are ever in Newark, New Jersey, the museum has a lovely Tibetan exhibit
http://www.newarkmuseumshops.org/newark/dept.asp?s_id=0&dept_id=3011
sun bin added these pithy words on 10 Jul 06 at 4:55 amnewsweek report
has a quiz.At one point, we noticed that every 150 feet or so, a lone member of China’s armed police stood ramrod straight not far from the track, sometimes saluting the train, sometimes facing away from it, always at attention. As we got closer to Lhasa, the uniforms got spiffier, including helmets and bullet-proof vests. This succession of solitary figures saluting our train in the middle of high-altitude nowhere was truly surreal. (“They’re protecting the railway,”Â? explained a foreign ministry official. Protecting against what? “I don’t know.”Â?)
Elizabeth added these pithy words on 10 Jul 06 at 7:51 am“Trains are ideal for shipping bulk commodities”
And fewer emissions than cars, which is why I nearly always support trains. One will not stop the Hans by stopping trains, but one can keep prices up. Railroads lower prices of much-needed goods like basic foodstuffs (carrots, vegetables from the south, rice, and other things that might not be available in the same quantity in the north), medicines, etc.
This rarely drives many locals out of business because most people are substistence farmers who eat most of what they produce. The people who lose out most are the middle-sized producers. Still, trains and transport are almost always good, on balance, for nutrition and consumption.
Nothing to say about the Han question, but I’m happy for all of the poor people who may now be able to afford one more tomato per week, or oranges at New Years, or who might taste lettuce for the first time.
(I don’t remember who it was who was last amused by my obsession with nutrition- as a pregnant woman and humanitarian aid worker, I can’t help it, it’s the world as I see it, and I’m sure I’m not the only one.)
Yago added these pithy words on 10 Jul 06 at 12:18 pmHow many Tibetans are they? 5 million? And you want the Han not to occupy their land? That’s not gonna happen. Independence means you actually can defend your land. History has its laws besides what demonstrators in NYC would want.
J. Kende added these pithy words on 10 Jul 06 at 6:20 pmYago, that is why I suggested the Tibetans protesting in NYC need to rethink their own demography and wealth creation. Do try to remember that there aren’t so many more Jews in the world than Tibetans. There is a model of sorts for how a relatively small population can stand up to goliaths on the world stage. In the very same history however there is just as clear a model for how these Davids are so vulnerable to extermination by the larger populations. This is why I think the Tibetans should be looking at their current situation as a short term window of opportunity where they can expand their population base, their economic power, and their network cohesion to better gulliverize and/or balkanize their much larger foe. Would it be easy? No, of course not. But history rarely is.
heirabbit added these pithy words on 11 Jul 06 at 3:36 pmNice to get some warm, fuzzy, left-wing racism from Kende. What would you like, an apartheid state like Israel? Cool! Then all the neighbors could hate them for discrimination and exile of unwanted (Han) populations. We could make all the Hans second-class citizens and make them yield to Tibetans on the street. Paul Simon could make a Han pop band and a hit single based on “Jasmine Flowers”.
But there’s a new phrase hitting the street in China: “We’re all Chinese”. Wonder what that really means. But at least it’s less esoteric than “We’re all human beings.”
Mazel tov on the Tibetan (i.e., not dirty Han) business plan. Don’t listen to those grinches like Curzon and Elizabeth (who seem to think people need food or something).
J.Kende added these pithy words on 11 Jul 06 at 6:10 pmLeft wing racism? Apartheid state?
1. I’m not a leftist. Your snarky response here is more at home on the left than I am.
2. Racism… oh yes, wonderful accusation to trot out anytime you want to drag discussion down into a flame war. Try a real argument will you?
3. Israel is not anywhere close to an apartheid state. You insult those who lived under real apartheid. Israel is a good model of how to build a strong nation in extremely difficult circumstances and for how a diaspora community can build well above average accomplishments. Yes, I’m a proud Zionist. Don’t like it? Tough.
4. I’m not calling for the Han to be second class citizens. I’m calling for a strategy from Tibetans themselves to stop the slow extermination of Tibetans in Tibet by the Chinese. If you disagree on that being what’s happening in Tibet, fine make an argument saying so. But to bait and inflame in such an infantile way won’t serve as a replacement for a good argument.
5. Damn right they need food. I said right from the start that I disagree with those Tibetan protesters who think the railroad is a totally bad thing. The policies of the totalitarian Chinese government attempting to erase the Tibetans predate the railroad and will continue with or without it. That the railroad will provide cheaper food and other goods to the region is a great thing. So too is it’s potential to bring travelers like Curzon to the roof of the world to explore the region firsthand. But that doesn’t mean the Tibetan diaspora shouldn’t be doing much more themselves to create wealth and demographic strength and funneling much of that back to their homeland.
6. Associating yourself with well regarded commenters like Curzon by suggesting I’m calling him or Elizabeth a grinch, and using their well reasoned comments to act as a shield for yourself while you hurl your slime, should be beneath the contributors to the comments here on CA. Sadly the 7th grade (at best) attitude of smear first discuss never that has become so popular in small but vocal parts of the blogosphere makes it’s appearance even here.
sun bin added these pithy words on 11 Jul 06 at 9:34 pm“slow extermination “? huh?
i wonder what ‘fast exterminations’ are? andes, american west, palestine?
Jing added these pithy words on 11 Jul 06 at 9:35 pmThere are approximately 5 million total Tibetans in China, but only 2 million Tibetans living within the geographic boundaries of the TAR. There are significant Tibetan populations in neighbouring provinces such as Sichuan. These areas were not included in the TAR even though these areas were historically “Tibetan”.
Not quite sure why, it may have been because the Tibetan communities there were already heavily interspersed with Han communities.
As to the feasibility of a “free” Tibet, I am highly skeptical if the Tibetans can recreate the Israeli experience. I think it’s apples and oranges. Israel exists because of certain specific geopolitical circumstances that allowed for it’s formation. It exists today because it’s enemies, although tenacious, had largely been ineffective in destroying her.
Tibetans are in a whole nother school of fish. Barring a third world war in which a defeated China is occupied by a coalition of “allied” powers reforming a new government alas Germany & Japan or Iraq for that matter, Tibet’s ultimate independence or autonomy will depend solely on Chinese suffrance.
J. Kende added these pithy words on 11 Jul 06 at 10:22 pmThe point that independence for Tibet would depend on a dramatic change in China is fair enough. It is a large part of what I was trying to get at earlier. For a Free Tibet, Tibetans must assist in transforming China. In order to do that Tibetans must concentrate on their own economic power and population growth.
As for what fast extermination would look like, I think we are mixing up points here. Looking at the expansion of China into Tibet in a way that is neutral as to the character of the Chinese regime, there is a large similarity to the expansion of the US into the American west. A comparison to the Spanish conquest of the Andes is less accurate owing to it’s greater distance in time. The comparison to Palestine makes me first ask what Palestine you speak of… Are you talking about the province of the Ottoman empire? The British Mandate? The post partition period? Or the strife that has existed since the emergence of Israel? I hardly see any sort of extermination at all there regardless. War, both outright and continuous low-level, sure. But no extermination fast or slow.
The problem with comparing China re Tibet with the USA re it’s western frontier is that part about neutrality towards the nature of the regime. In a 1:1 comparison of 1800’s USA and today’s China there are vast differences. Looking at railways and settlers alone is not enough.
If a mostly free China were expanding into Tibet it would be a different story from what we see today. As someone who values much of what defines Tibetans I would be suggesting to them methods to compete on equal footing and to gain advantages in the race to integrate with the region. But in the face of attempts to replace them with more willing subjects to a wholy unfree regime I do not see it in our interests or theirs for them to be quietly absorbed by their much larger neighbor.
Yago added these pithy words on 12 Jul 06 at 12:52 amThe US (300m people) is having problems to secure it’s southern border, and an independent Tibet (2m) would be able to keep Han migrants out? If Mao invaded in the 50s was because, well, it was an easy war.
I mean we’re all sorry about the death of traditional Tibetan culture, but that’s how things work. Nations who cannot defend themselves eventually die. Countless similar cultures have died or are in the process of doing so in today’s China, and nobody said a thing.
“This is why I think the Tibetans should be looking at their current situation as a short term window of opportunity where they can expand their population base…”
Tibetans are not in a position as to be able to ‘plan’ in such a way. Jews had a European culture before establishing Israel, they knew what they wanted to do and how to do it. Tibet was flashy and interesting, but a third world country. Let’s not forget it.
sun bin added these pithy words on 12 Jul 06 at 4:43 amsome observation in south china (guangdong, fujian) you guys probably haven’t heard of.
buddhists there (Han) are very fond of tibetan lamas. quite a few lama have large crowd of followers and frequently holding ceremonies, selling blessed artifacts, and accepting ‘donation’ from these Han buddhists. they are VERY well-off.
this example just shows that there are exchange between han and tibetan, and some of these exchanges strengthen tibetan’s cultural heritage/influence and economically. although it might be assymetrical, but tibetans do have their competitive advantage.
they just need to find them and use them.
sun bin added these pithy words on 12 Jul 06 at 4:45 amcan you quote any evidence that such thing occured? tibetans were slowly drugged? or is there a gas chamber? or reward for head-hunting?
sun bin added these pithy words on 12 Jul 06 at 4:46 am...or anything more serious than what is happeninf in gaza strip today?
J.Kende added these pithy words on 12 Jul 06 at 8:04 pmAnything more serious than what is happening in the Gaza Strip? I’m sorry, but I missed when the Chinese pullout from Tibet followed by months of Tibetans rocketing China instead of building up their own proto-state.
sun bin added these pithy words on 12 Jul 06 at 10:05 pmwell….israelis did not exactly pulled out of palestine, they keep a big chunk of it. and they are taxing the palestinians (in where they had pulled out) and refused to hand the tax revenue to the democratically elected govt of their ‘proto-state’.
furthermore, innocent children and women were killed in missile strikes in gaza routinely, that wouls qualify as ‘extermination’. that has not happened in tibet.—quote me example of what you meant by ‘extermination’. if you cannot, stay quiet or change topic.
i condemn any terrorist act, including those from palestinians. i do sympathize with the innocent isrealis who were killed.
but i just cannot tolerate the double-standardness you professed.
heirabbit added these pithy words on 15 Jul 06 at 2:22 pmIsrael is an apartheid state because its citizenship requirements include religious conversion and/or proof of heritage. All others are not granted citizenship. There are arab and christian slums in Israel, filled with non-citizens.
You say you are a Zionist and that if I don’t like it, though. That’s really cool. I wasn’t talking about what I like or don’t like. And what people personally go for and don’t isn’t what’s discussed here. The facts? The Palestinians were expelled, they were not granted return, and under international law the Israeli state is comitting atrocities and war crimes in an effort to skirt what a vast consensus of historians and politicians (and nearly all the countries of the world represented in the UN) agree is their obligation. They need to pull out from the pre-1967 borders, accept the amazing compromise on half of Jerusalem, and get with the international order on things. They’ve been stripped of most of their weapons, and reduced to throwing rocks in the street and comitting suicide in crude bombing attacks just to get what they are entitled to under law. Oh yeah, but they’re “terrorists”.
I don’t care if you “like” international law or anything, but you could consider it as a valid place to start a discussion. And by denying that Zionism itself is a kind of racial or religious apartheid, you’re getting ridiculous. If you “like” it, say what it is: a state organized on the basis of religion and race, with all those not conforming being expunged, threatened or killed. The atrocities of the Iraeli state have been exhaustively documented by countless human rights organizations and observers. They’re comments are not like yours, where we use war terminology to describe non-violent, though regrettable things.
Good luck on getting an Israeli-type gruesome record on contemporary Tibet. “Extermination”? Good enough hyperbole to cleanse your guilty soul, but not believeable enough to rational human beings.
heirabbit added these pithy words on 15 Jul 06 at 2:32 pmWithin Kende’s 6 points we see no reaction to the humanist argument – that is, that we are all people. We don’t need to go around making parts of the world ethnically pure, unless we’re a bit deranged. There is NO extermination of Tibetan populations in Tibet. They are mixing and cooperating with “Hans”, who are themselves a mix of a number of minority bloodlines including Han. When China becomes part of the developed world more of cultural preservation projects will get funded, the tastes of people with money will gradually improve etc. But anyway, we’re all people, and only apologists for apartheid like yourself would deny that.
