The Economist visits Turkmenistan
this week. The article outlines many of the education, health and political problems caused by the wacky declarations of President Niyazov, aka “Turkmenbashi” (“Father of Turkmen”) which have previously been covered by our friends at Registan. For those unfamiliar with the country and their nutcase leader I recommend the article. A few highlights below:
Ashgabat, the capital, is a surreal showpiece of grandiose, neo-Stalinist buildings of gleaming white marble, with giant portraits and gold statues of the Turkmenbashi everywhere””?including one, arms aloft, that constantly revolves through 360 degrees, so that it always faces the sun. … Such are the priorities of a regime that squanders money on prestige projects of dubious benefit, including an ice-rink, a huge half-finished artificial lake, vast mosques, gold-domed palaces and soon a new zoo, complete with penguins, in a country where the summer temperature tops 50°C.
All is not well, though, as protests have erupted in the town of Turkembashi and a “Niyazov statue in the city of Mary (once known as Merv) had its arm sawn off and a bucket of human faeces thrown over it.” Yet a Colour Revolution seems unlikely:
Despite widespread unhappiness with the regime, most Turkmen do not see a way out. Rebellion looks impossible, given the level of repression and fear; and state benefits (free gas and electricity and highly subsidised fuel, since plentiful gas and oil are Turkmenistan’s only blessing) take some of the edge off discontent. Besides, people are brainwashed by a relentless propaganda machine orchestrated by four state-television channels, two radio stations and several newspapers propounding the idea of a “golden age”Â?. Exiled opposition groups have little influence, and pressure from the outside, given Turkmenistan’s large mineral reserves, is shamefully muted.
Turkmenbashi, 66, is reportedly having heart problems and has a team of 8 German doctors on call. If there ever was an opportunity for asset recruitment, this is it.

Comments to this entry
Elizabeth
June 1, 2006
12:30 pm
I'm not sure if it was Kaplan or a travel writer who better expressed how the other Central Asian states kept people in fear of losing their security, but basically, upon interviewing some Uzbek men, the author asked, "Why haven't you even considered the possibility of revolution?" and the men answered, "Tajikistan." They were referring to the civil war, but the spectre remains.
Even today, Turkmenistan comes in much higher (though perhaps artificially) than Tajikistan on nearly all of the human development indicators. Those flying into the capital don't see this, but those taking trains across Central Asia do. Many Tajiks remain envious of Turkmenistan's independence, low prices, and stability.
Rommel
June 1, 2006
1:05 pm
Elizabeth
June 1, 2006
1:11 pm
I don't remember exactly why, but I think it was about gas prices and use of a port that Russia and Turkmenistan fell out. Oh, right, perhaps it was the closing of all Orthodox churches or something? It was after "Eastward to Tartary" but if you'll notice, even in that book, relations with Moscow are not warm. I think it was also in the Economist.
I think T-bashi is coocoo for cocopuffs myself, and any "pro" stance he might have would be purely for the benefit of his own rule and be temporary. I'm not sure if "neutral" is the right word- "oblivious" might cover it better. However there was that Unocal pipeline they've been just dying to construct through Afghanistan, and if I remember correctly, this did involve Turkmenistan later on (Ahmed Rashid, also was in NYTimes).
Rommel
June 1, 2006
1:29 pm
Thanks for illuminating us with your expertise again. (I couldnt read that Economist article for some reason, my Internet is bunk sometimes).
I meant to comment about what you said about Tajikistan in the other post. Have you read ex-CIA man Bob Baer's first book about his time in the agency? I thought the part about Tajikistan was the most interesting and tragic (well maybe Lebanon) chapter of the book. It really got depressing when he talked about the CIA's personnel errors they were making at the time he left there. Anyway, I digress and thanks again.
Younghusband
June 1, 2006
6:08 pm
As Elizabeth mentioned there is the pipeline issue, but Turkmenistan is for all intensive purposes a hermit kingdom. They have money from natural gas to run on for now, but real development is a long way off until the 'Bash kicks the bucket.
Nathan
June 1, 2006
6:38 pm
Elizabeth
June 2, 2006
4:16 am
YH- Also note that Tajikistan depends even more on Russia's support of its 650,000 workers (10% of the population) who are presently engaged in seasonal or other labour in Russia. It was said in Asia Plus that the remittances from labour in Russia and other former Soviet states made up even more than all humanitarian aid to Tajikistan put together. Turkmenistan's citizens do not have the same opportunities- but again, this isn't a reason for chilly relations, since it's the Turkmen who lose out.
Curzon
June 2, 2006
5:16 am