I am hanging out at the Caspian Sea right now, gonna be heading back to Tehran tomorrow in preparation for flying home.
One interesting piece of info I have come across is that from most of the people I have talked to the next guy to be president here after Khatami steps down is either Rohani (the foreign ministry dude who negotiated the contract with Europe) or Molavi. Both are progressives and very popular, particularly Rohani. The Iranians feel that he is helping them to communcate to the world, unlike the tight-lipped days of Rafsanjani when Iran was secretly developing weapons and nuclear capabilities. Rohani is also considered to be much stronger than the more subtle Khatami, and many young Iranians feel he will be able to push through reforms at a faster pace.